Documents, please.

Up until now I thought I was blending in with the Russians pretty well. I obviously don't scream tourist because I am often asked for directions, and we all know that this is a milestone moment for any person studying a foreign language. The aim here is to have emerged yourself so deeply into that language, that you suddenly begin to question your nationality yourself. You look in the mirror and think "do I look *insert nationality here* enough today?" And if the answer is yes, you will most probably be asked for directions. The ability to answer, on the other hand, is 9 times out of 10 impossible. But you're so happy that someone asked, and you don't even care that they need an answer, you just end up apologising anyway, you're English.

This momentous moment was met over a month ago, so understand my surprise when I was stopped by a policeman for jaywalking - crossing the road before the green man was, well, green. I have crossed these traffic lights 5 days a week for the past 10 weeks, and you rarely see the green man. You either have to wait 10 minutes, or risk your life crossing the roads full of crazy Russian drivers. Honestly, they are insane here. There is no concept of giving way to others, nor are there even lines on the roads. They just go for it. The worst thing, though, is the constant honking of horns when a car has not moved within the 5 second window it is given - but that's a whole other rant.

So, on this particular day we decided to put our lives in the hands of the crazy Russian drivers and cross, having not seen the two policemen standing on the other side. I have been told tales of foreigners being asked for their documents from suspecting policemen, and how awful the whole situation is, so when said policemen started to amble toward us I wanted to run the other way. Hearts beating fast, we were asked to prove that we were in the country legally, and then decided to play the ignorant, dumb English girls. "I'm so sorry officer, we didn't realise that the red man means do not cross." They laughed and muttered words of mockery no doubt, then one of them began pointing, saying "red... no! green... yes!" Clever, that one.

Needless to say, it was all a bit awkward and frightening, but really they were bored at 9:30 in the morning and fancied a laugh. I suppose I now have a story to tell, and have since understood jaywalking to be a serious offense in a country that proves itself to be more and more crazy every week.

A Weekend in Moscow

A month after my last post - I really am awful at this whole blogging thing. I have to admit though, I’ve been waiting on some sort of horrific event that would make for great writing. Alas, I have nothing… Russia has been surprisingly good for me! That’s not to say I haven’t done anything worth reporting - spending a weekend in Moscow might just make the cut.

Moscow: the capital of the largest country in the world. Home to almost 12 million people. So it won’t come as a surprise to anyone that it was both overwhelming and bloody brilliant. After travelling over 4 hours by train, we arrived in Moscow from St Petersburg. Much to my disappointment, it was not a Soviet Union style carriage that you’d imagine would have wooden seats and barely enough room to stretch out your big toe. Instead, it was spacious, modern, and had really bouncy seats. Luxury.

As soon as you step out of the train station, you’re greeted by hoards of tourists and businessmen. But, what do you expect? It’s the capital of the biggest country in the world (I have to keep reminding myself this, because it’s so easy to forget when you’re living here!) I couldn’t believe how contrasting Moscow is to SPB. It’s as if you have landed in another country. The infrastructure down to the mannerisms of people are on opposite ends of the spectrum. Apart from, maybe, their love for gold plated everything - that’s definitely a national thing.

One thing I did notice, and have noticed whilst living in St Petersburg, is their lack of accommodating for foreigners who have no idea what the Cyrillic alphabet is. Whether it’s signs for roads or advertisements for boat trips, I would find it verging on impossible to navigate around Russia without at least knowing the alphabet. I often wonder how a non-Russian speaking person sees the Cyrillic alphabet, how they pronounce words that look more like small pictures. It’s such a geeky linguist thing to do, but it really is hilarious.

There was so much to see and do and I didn’t have enough time/energy to trek across the huge city. I even didn’t have time to see the Moscow Kremlin. Only the first thing anyone thinks about when Moscow is mentioned. Well, it wasn’t really that I didn’t have time, it was more that 1) I couldn’t actually find it (turns out I was practically looking at it, there was just the small matter of a high wall obstructing my view), and 2) it was closed on Sunday so that the lucky bastards who have graduated from high school can have their Summer ball in Putin’s official residence. I would just like to point out that, even though I was unable to attend, my high school summer ball was in a castle. Okay, that sounds a lot grander than I was hoping it would… My aim was to highlight how much more brilliant a school ball is when it’s held in the Kremlin. Point not well made.

The inability to visit the Kremlin aside, my favourite find of the city was Café Pushkin. I’m going to contradict myself again and admit that it wasn’t exactly my ‘find’ - in fact, Trip Advisor owns that right. Nonetheless, it was probably the best meal I have ever eaten. The building was made into a restaurant only 10 years ago, but the interior is such that you feel as though you’re dining during the times of the great Russian poet, Alexander Pushkin. We ate on the third floor - the library. It felt decadent with the high ceilings, tall book cases, a huge antique globe, and waiters fitted in Pushkin-style attire. It wasn’t just a meal, it was an experience. An expensive experience, but a great one nonetheless.

As much as I enjoyed my weekend in Moscow, I was glad to return to Westernised St Petersburg with its beautiful buildings on every corner and canals weaving through the city centre. I really haven’t got it half bad here!

Overlooking Moscow

Café Pushkin, Moscow

St Basil's Cathedral

Peterhof, St Petersburg

Peterhof, St Petersburg